September 29, 2002
Where does the time go?
When we were kids the summers were endless, now they just whiz by at an
accelerating rate.
Ken has really been enjoying his off road rock crawling
Suzuki. He is already planning on
installing a new engine so it will have more horsepower to pull him up and over
incredible rocks.
This past July we traveled in our Chevy truck (nickname: Big
Bear) to Aspen where we unloaded
and parked the Suzuki, and then we traveled to Crested Butte in the Bear. We spent the night there and early next
morning drove up to Schofield Pass
to trek from Crested Butte to Aspen
(Yup! Up and over the West Maroon Wilderness)!
We could not drive to the trailhead since an avalanche of snow prevented
travel by truck. So we parked the truck
and hiked a couple extra miles to the trailhead. We took West
Maroon Pass
and marveled at the hillside of Fireweed (a purple to pink color). There were literally acres of flowers in
bloom. The hike downhill to Aspen
was not as beautiful and colorful as the Crested Butte
side which is probably why CB claims to be the “Wildflower Capital of
Colorado”. The Maroon
Bell Mountains
are quite spectacular and the lake on the Aspen side
with the Maroon Bells for a background is quite impressive. However, because of the drought, the lake was
quite low, beautiful, but below normal.
We caught one of the Park busses to the parking lot where
the “Zuki” was parked and drove down to Aspen.
We spent the night in Aspen and the
next morning hopped into the Suzuki to visit the “Ghost Town of Ashland”. This has been kept up very well and was a
tourist destination, not your typical ghost town. The money in Aspen
provides very well for its upkeep.
We returned to CB via some rough 4wd roads through Marble
and into the little town of Crystal
where the photogenic Crystal mill
and mine is located. Ken captured the scenery in some photos and then we drove the Lead King Basin
loop. This is a high altitude 4wd
road. We did come across two standard
vehicles (probably rental cars) that had to negotiate many places very, very
carefully. One error would have cost a
bundle of bucks to have a tow truck rescue them.
After we finished this loop we climbed Schofield
Pass to a hair-raising piece of
road called the Devil’s Punch Bowl. At the start of this awesome place there
were four Jeeps parked and the occupants were picnicking. After conversing with them Ken found out they
did not feel comfortable traveling up the steep rock strewn single lane
mountain pass. They scouted it and found a boulder 10 ft. high and 6 ft. wide
taking up most of the road. The Suzuki
is smaller in width so it can negotiate smaller spaces than a jeep. Ken put it
in gear and motored on up. Good thing I
was on the inside and not on the cliff edge that must have been crumbling under
our tires. After we passed this point,
Ken advised me that a few years ago an entire family in their vehicle tumbled
almost 1000 feet to their death at this spot.
We drove on and came to a beautiful waterfall where we pulled out our
sandwiches and had lunch and enjoyed the peaceful scene and the sound of the
water.
Ken had a plan that if we could not get the “Zuki” over the
avalanche that had stopped our Chevy 4wd truck on Schofield
Pass we would take a longer but
easier alternate route. If we were to slide off the tilted avalanche it was
cause a 200 foot rollover into a streambed. On the third try, Ken and Zuki made
it without a slip and we continued on to the truck and Crested Butte.
Crested Butte is
a small town with brightly colored Victorian buildings and several wonderful
restaurants. You can feel a sense of
pride from the residents. They work on
bringing about several events throughout the year. It’s a really neat place to visit. Of course, in snow season, we have heard that
snow can accumulate to the second story window.
One owner of a B&B said they would let their dog out the second
story window when it wanted to go outside.
Now that is a winter of snow.
One of the outings of the day was a drive up to 12,500-foot Pearl
Pass. Ken drove to Pearl
Pass and on the way dropped me off
in the wilderness at an amazingly beautiful area with a little brook and
wonderful clouds so I could paint. We
moved the cooler out to literally the middle of wilderness and there I sat by
myself not seeing anyone for more than 1 ½ hours and checking every so often
for bears. He took a photo from quite a
distance of where I was painting and in the distance I can be seen as a little
speck of pink.
We drove back to the valley and Ken let me set up again to
paint the incredible scene of mountains and old barn.
The next day we headed off to Leadville, the highest
elevation town of its size in the United States. If you have not visited Leadville, it is well
worth it. It was quite a town during the
mining era and had a population of thousands.
We caught a performance of “Baby Doe” Tabor. The actress has performed this one-woman play
for years. She wrote the play for her
thesis in college and is now in her sixties, so she has been performing this
for some time. She draws people from the
audience into the play and got to Ken and he became Horace Tabor owner of the
famous “Matchless Mine”. At one point in
the play she played the part of Tabor’s first wife who confronted Baby Doe (who
turned out to be me) and played the part of wife pitted against the husband’s
mistress. It was fun to be involved a
bit in this theatrical performance.
Next day we were driving up a dirt road to view some
abandoned mines when we came across a fellow in a broken down Volvo that have
over 400,000 miles on it. He was Dan
Devine, and had a golden retriever with him.
Ken helped him repair his car and Dan told us about this shaggy recluse
“Jamie” who lived in one of the old mine shacks and has not bathed in years.
Earlier that day we had seen Jamie walking along the road and both of us turned
around to get a better look at this apparition with his ragged long gray beard
and wild gray hair in a tattered ski parka (and it was summer). Dan told us the story of befriending Jamie
and giving him rides to his shack in the old mining area. One day Jamie hauled off and drove his fist
into Dan’s golden retriever. Dan stopped
the car and asked, “What was that for?”
Jamie replied “no dog licks me in the face”. Dan said, “Get out of the car.” and has not
given Jamie a ride since. By the way,
Jamie receives monthly checks from some trust fund and is not destitute. He just chooses to live this way.
Dan advised us where to see many old abandoned mines and
pointed us to two locations of Molly Brown’s early homes in the mines high in
the mountains. We were able to take
several photos and they will be the subjects of a series of mine paintings.
If you ever want a great filet mignon dinner, Leadville has
a restaurant which offers only one menu item:
prime rib one night and the filet mignon the next night. We visited this restaurant where I got a 9 oz
filet; Ken got the 12 oz. We had wine
and beer all for a total of $29. It was
good food. You can’t beat that.
Leadville also has a sense of pride in their town. I’m sure we will return next year because I
would like to hike up nearby Mt. Elbert,
the highest 14’er in Colorado.
This year Ken and I hiked up two 14’ers: Mt.
Democrat a few miles from
Breckenridge and Mt. Sneffels
in Ouray. (More about
Sneffels later.) These are both
14er’s (over 14,000 ft. mountains). Ken has done a few
others that are more technically challenging.
In July I took part in Rhythm on the River, an annual Longmont
event. This is quite a family event with
foot races, entertainment, balloon rides, crafts for kids, and an Art tent
(which is what I participated in). We
had 11 artists in this tent displaying our work. I also painted during the day and it was of
interest to people who walked through the tent.
One mother and daughter stopped and we were talking about the pastel
painting technique when the little girl took her finger and dragged it across
my picture. I gasped “no, no”, mother
rebuked the kid and quickly disappeared.
My friend across the way said you should have said, “Now you have bought
it, you can do whatever you wish with it.”
But I wasn’t that quick. I was
just too aghast at what happened. I did
sell a painting and felt pretty good about that.
Around mid August we traveled to Alamosa,
Colorado, to visit the Great
Sand Dunes Monument. We have been to the Cape
and have seen and walked on the sand dunes, but the Dunes at the Monument are
800 ft. high and miles long. They are
pure sand, no rocks, very little vegetation and continue a couple of hundred
feet below the surface of the earth.
Morning light and late afternoon light cast marvelous shadows and a
lighting display that is spectacular.
Ken wanted to do a technical drive up Blanca
Peak near Alamosa – nationally
known as the hardest 4wd road in Colorado. There were times I had to get out of the car
because it was too scary for me to stay in the vehicle. There were three areas on this route named: JAWS 1, JAWS 2, and JAWS 3. Ken got the Zuki over Jaws 1 and 2. After a
couple of tries at Jaws 3, Ken abandoned the effort and used an easier
alternate route. We then continued up to Lake
Como. We were there at the perfect moment when no
one else was around. We had the lake to
ourselves. Mount
Blanca is also a 14er. However, it is so technically difficult, I don’t think I want to ever do it. It is all jumbled rock, scree,
steep and extremely challenging. We saw
hikers coming down with helmets and special equipment aiding in their descent.
The next day we took the Suzuki into the Great Sand Dunes
road to Medano Pass. This too is a 4 wheel drive road but much,
much easier. We saw only one other
vehicle along this road and as we approached each other stopped to talk. Ken warned the fellow of a recently fallen
tree and how to get around it. We then
continued to Medano Pass.
Once again, Ken dropped me off at a grove of aspen to paint and continued to
explore with the Suzuki. This time there
was no one who drove by. Once again, I
kept checking for animals that might want to visit me (and the food chest I was
sitting on). After Ken’s return, we
packed up and drove to a trailhead to hike to Medano
Lake. We saw bear scat along the
way and so I broke out in song to let the bears know we were coming. This trail was 4 miles long and very steep
for about 1-½ miles. Once again we had
the lake and trail to ourselves. I like
this feeling. It’s as if you were
walking in areas for the first time as explorers.
After our adventures in the Sand Dunes area, we loaded the
Suzuki on its trailer and headed for Ouray high in the San Juans. Here the
seemingly endless old mining roads in the high and rugged mountains are a Mecca
for 4 wheeling. Ken enjoyed some of the most difficult roads with the
“Zuki”. Of course, I rode passenger and
suffered more from pounding then from hiking.
(Definitely shaken, not stirred.)
The views from these old mining roads, high above timberline, are
awesome.
I had a chance to paint in a panoramic setting in Yankee
Boy Basin. This one particular hillside was lime green,
purple, orange, gold and yellow. What
coloring!
While in Ouray we decided to hike another 14er and tackled Mt.
Sneffels. You begin on a lovely hiking path and turn a
corner and see that the trail goes straight up ½ mile to a saddle joining two
peaks. The climb to this saddle was all
jumbled loose rock. No one approached
this quickly. It was slow, difficult going.
We rested on the saddle and took in the incredible view of
cathedral-like spires of rock (some looked like organ pipes). After a bit we looked around to try and
figure out where the trail went. Soon we
saw a lone hiker appear high in a steep and rocky gully. That was the hint we needed and we proceeded
up this boulder filled gully. This was
even steeper than what we had just climbed up.
We exited the gully through a difficult smooth V shaped
notch onto a knife-edge ridge at about 14,000 ft. The remainder was a few hundred ft. of rock
scramble to the summit with definite attention getting exposure all the
way. Views were spectacular. The sky was cloudless, blue and vision
unlimited. Mountain range beyond
mountain range was visible. The huge
green basin below us glittered with emerald green lakes.
We had lunch at the summit and joked about if anything
happened to me Ken would collect my Social Security. We then started the descent. This proved more difficult than the
climb. By this time there were many
other climbers going both up and down – all moving incredibly slow, like a slow
motion parade.
Half way down the difficult gully we heard a rock noise
above us. We looked up and saw and heard people yelling “ROCK”. We saw huge boulders the size of steamer
trunks bounding through the air gathering speed toward us. Ken yelled at me to go to the sidewall of the
gully - NOW. This was just 30 feet away over huge boulders. All the while we struggled towards the wall
Ken was yelling “Move, move, further, faster, keep going”. We got to the wall and the flying boulders
smote the boulder where we had been standing just seconds ago and continued
hurtled downward through the air. There
were perhaps 20 hikers below us.
Miraculously, no one was injured.
All were shaken. My knees were
weak and wobbly. Some women were crying.
We continued slowly down without further excitement. At the base of the steepest part we met a
couple (husband and wife). The woman was
quite ill and her husband was helping her descend. I asked, “Are you alright”? Her husband, named Rock, said “No, my wife is very ill and
nauseous”. I said we have our vehicle parked
at the trailhead. We have coke in the cooler and that should help settle her
stomach. Both Ken and I hurriedly
finished our descent and Ken hiked back up to where Mary was, but she couldn’t
drink the coke.
While we were hurrying down the trail a dog with another
party of hikers was following close to me and I kept telling him I would get
him water. At the Suzuki I detached the bungee cords from the cooler and put
the cooler down so the dog could drink the ice water. I didn’t think he would ever stop drinking. I
told his owner. Owner said, but I gave
him a bottle of water. He probably
offered some cupped in his hands. It surely wasn’t enough.
When Mary, the ill person, reached our car we put her in the
passenger seat while her husband and I sat on the cooler in the back. Riding in
the open air we held onto the roll bars for dear life. Descending over rocks and around hairpin
turns we drove Mary and Rock back to their car.
Longmont Studio Tours took place September 21 and 22. We had 275 people visit my home studio I
shared with a few other artists and I sold two paintings. One visitor, a woman who owns a gallery in Arvada
(Denver), wants my painting of an
adobe home with an electric blue door that I had just finished. Ken and I were about to leave for the Grand
Canyon and she was going to Taos,
so I must call her this coming week.
Another woman who owns a shop on Main Street,
Longmont, asked if I would like to be a
featured artist at her establishment. Of
course I said yes. Yahoo!
What a weekend!
Monday, September 23rd we traveled to the Grand
Canyon where my son Scott is a Park Ranger. We celebrated my birthday on Tuesday with a
visit to Shoshone Point where we had the entire place to ourselves followed by
a wonder dinner at the classic El Tovar hotel.
Wednesday the three of us hiked down into the Canyon to the Colorado
River. It’s 4,500 ft. down and then 4500
ft. back up, all in one day. We needed 12 hours to hike the 18 miles. The final
¼ mile to the rim took everything I had (and a flashlight to light the
way). The temperature in the canyon was
over 90 degrees. We must have consumed 6 – 7 quarts of water. At the bottom of the canyon, in the inner
gorge, you are traveling thru time. The rocks are one and a half billion years
old. For a while you hike through
beautiful beach sand next to the muddy, swirling Colorado River.
On the way into the canyon on the Kaibab
Trail we met two women in their 30’s.
One had braces on both knees and ankles.
I asked her what happened. She
looked at her friend and smiled and said ‘I have MS and my knees buckle at
times.’ She and her friend are physical
therapists and she said she always advises her clients that they can overcome
their disabilities. I told her she was very admirable.
Our attention then shifted to her friend who was carrying a
yellow box containing a satellite telephone.
The two were hiking down the canyon to meet friends at the river and go
rafting. The satellite phone was to call her mother who was taking care of her
four month old infant. She had to check
in on her baby. These are modern times.
The next day we met the radio dispatcher for the Park
Rangers. Scott commented to her that yesterday’s epic hike into the canyon was
something his mother wanted for her 65th birthday and said he was
glad she only turned 65 once. I’m glad
we did it, the three of us. It was
wonderful and memorable. You can really
get the feeling for how immense the canyon is.
It is truly one of the “Wonders of the World”. The Grand
Canyon is immense, awesome, inspiring, beautiful. It’s hard to take it all in.
Thursday, Scott took us on 50 miles of dirt road (quite
rough and rocky) through the Havasupi Reservation and
back into the Park at Havasupi Point. Needless to say, not many tourists visit this
area. While I was setting up to paint I
noticed Scott and Ken were busy changing a flat tire on Scott’s Jeep. The spare tire was one of those tiny,
temporary ones and was under inflated. When we packed up and left it went flat
on the first rough spot. We were 50 miles from pavement! Scott decided to
sacrifice the spare tire.
We began the long trek back on the flat tire. Every few miles along the rocky road we would
stop to inspect the tire. It soon began to disintegrate. Wires from the tire
wrapped around the axle and brakes and had to be cut away. Soon we were on the
metal rim alone. We were about 10 miles
from the paved road and civilization when the rim broke in half. Luckily we
were now within cell phone range of Park headquarters. Scott called the Park Ranger
dispatcher and requested a tow truck. One and one half hours later and in total
darkness the truck arrived. It was a long, slow ride with four of us packed
like sardines in the front seat of the tow truck. We arrived at Scott’s home
about 10:30 p.m. tired, frazzled and
hungry. I searched Scott’s refrigerator;
there wasn’t much there. I pulled out hot dogs and bread and microwaved them. Our ‘feast’ concluded with frozen yogurt
and wine (and Advil!) and we fell into bed. This was really an adventure and
quite a birthday celebration.
After that day it seems fitting to end like Looney Tunes –
“That’s All, That’s All for Now Folks”.
Love, Diane and Ken